WAITOMO CAVES

Quite surprised to wake up on a foggy morning after day 10 ended in beautiful, blue skies. We head straight to Waitomo today to checkout the glowworm caves.

Not wanting to wake up the girls, Alain and I strolled to the Whanganui River which ran just behind the Taumarunui Holiday Park. I was hoping for a photo but couldn’t find an interesting composition. Alain took a couple then we headed back to the campervan. We had breakfast then headed off.

We bought the tickets at the Legendary Black Water Rafting Co. and also had lunch there. We took the option to visit all three caves, which would take us most of the afternoon.

Aranui Cave was the first we visited. Our group was small and our guide was wonderful which made the whole experience very nice. It starts with a small walk in the forest and a little story on the Silver Fern. Quite interesting. The cave is fairly narrow with a few high ceiling caverns. The stalactites are of every size you can imagine but I was less impressed than I thought I’d be. But I realised later that it was the smallest of the caves we visited. Still beautiful though.

The much anticipated Glowworm Caves was next. Unfortunately we weren’t permitted to take photos so I have a nothing to show you but will briefly describe the experience. You start with a narrow descent along a metallic walkway until you arrive in the, so called, cathedral area. A huge cavern with very few stalactites. You also realise you’re not the only group there. In this cathedral they talk about the stalactites and stalagmites, the glowworms and you get to see how they hang by a silk thread, and you get to sing in the dark. Once again you make your way along the narrow, metallic walkway to the underground river. There, you hop aboard a small boat where you make your way farther into the cave. It is pitch black. You can’t even see your hands in front of your face. Then all of a sudden the ceiling lights up in thousands, millions of tiny blue lights. Like stars on a clear night. Absolutely wonderful. I’ve never seen anything like it. So beautiful. You slowly see daylight as you come out of the cave and that’s the end of the tour. You get off the boat and make your way along a path surrounded by trees back up to the main area.

The last but definitely not the least, Ruakuri Cave is a mix of the previous two, the Aranui Cave and Glowworm Caves. Large caverns, narrow paths, stalactites and stalagmites, silk threads and glowworms, and an out-of-this-world entrance. A long spiral ramp about 40 metres high. The history of this caves is very interesting too. I think it’s the longest of all the caves. There’s a lot to see in this cave.

I recommend doing all three caves. It’s well worth while and the money. There are other options for adrenaline junkies too. It was late afternoon by the time we’d finished the visits and opted for a free campsite for the night. We found the Roselands Restaurant who let campervans stay for free in their carpark. Very smart of them because we ended up eating at the restaurant. Couldn’t resist the buffet and the BBQ cooked meat on option. Not too expensive either. The place is upon a hill with beautiful views. They can organise all your outings too.

Well that it for day 11 everyone. Tomorrow we head back to Auckland for three days. Hope to see you then. Goodnight.

p.s. a big thank you to Alain for some of his pics.

WAITOMO CAVES

day 11

A fresh, foggy morning on day 12 at the Taumarunui Holiday Park. Alain and I went for a stroll to the Whanganui River. Today we keep heading north to Waitomo to check out the glow-worm caves.

We didn’t have far to go so we weren’t in a rush this morning. After breakfast we tidied up the campervan and all the necessary maintenance before hitting the road. We thought it was going to be overcast today, which didn’t bother us as we were going to be underground most of the day, but the clouds broke up and the sun peaked through throughout the day. It was a nice drive. We arrived in Waitomo before lunch but ate anyway because we didn’t know if we were going to have the time between caves visits. And we’re all glad we did.

Our first cave was the Aranui Cave. The tour group was small and our guide was fantastic, right from the get-go. We started with a little walk in the forest before arriving at the entrance. A fairly narrow cave that opens up into some high ceiling areas. A lot of small stalactites hanging from the ceiling and much larger ones on the walls of the cave. There were some beautiful formations. We were assured none would fall on our heads, hence no helmet, but nonetheless we were a little apprehensive.

The Golwworm Caves were our next visit. The entrance to the caves is a cocoon-like architecture over a wooden structure. There are cafes and souvenir boutiques and a large area sitting area. Unfortunately photos and filming are not permitted in these caves. A shame really because it’s beautiful but I understand why. There are at least three groups in these caves at once and if they had to wait for everyone, they would never get out of there. Apart from the cathedral area, a huge chamber, the rest of these caves and pathways are very narrow indeed. We finished this tour aboard a small boat in pitch darkness and silence, under millions of glowworms. Absolutely stunning! It would’ve been impossible to take photos anyway. Moving boat, low light (no light), handheld... impossible. Hence no video nor photos. This cave is very different to Aranui Cave. Though there’s limestone everywhere, there is very little stalactites and stalagmites. Very impressive nonetheless.

Our last visit was the Ruakuri Cave. The entrance to this cave is spectacular. A spiralling walkway heading down, I don’t know, about 40 metres deep. This cave is a combine of the last two. You get stalactites and stalagmites and glowworms, small passages, cathedral ceilings and great history to go along. You’ll notice there’s no video of it, that’s because my phone died. It pretty much confirmed the possible battery problem I thought I was having on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. I had a touch more time for photos on this tour as there was quite a bit of narrative. I was very lucky though, my second and last battery died just as we were leaving the cave. I didn’t think I took that many photos but I think the cold used them up quicker.

So the caves are a must and I highly recommend doing all three. It takes about 4 hours to do the walking tours of all three but may take longer if you intend on doing the abseiling or tubing in the caves. They cost more too.

It was mid to late afternoon by the time we’d finished so we searched for a free campsite for the night and found the Roselands Restaurant. They offer free parking for campervan in their carpark. Which is pretty smart because I think every campervan that was there ended up eating at the restaurant. We did too. They had a buffet but you could also pre-order your meat for a bbq that they cooked. It was well worth the price and delicious. We were pleasantly surprised.

Once again, the end of the day has arrived. Tomorrow we keep heading north back to Auckland. Goodnight.

p.s. you know what this is all about, a big thanks to Alain for the use of his material.

MUSIC :

Traditional Maori Sound Healing Session from The Sound Temple

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

DAY 10

Today we do only one thing. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing. A 19.4 kilometre hike.

Thank goodness for the early night on day 9 because we had to be ready and waiting the shuttle, that would bring us to the start of the crossing, by 6 am. Shuttles to and from the car parks are provided by most of the areas’ hotels and campsites as parking is limited to 4 hours at the alpine crossing. The crossing doesn’t loop so unless you’re a super athlete, there’s no way you make the 19.4 kms AND back in that time. I think it took us 7 hours to complete it. One way. So book a shuttle in advance.

Tongariro Alpine Crossing starts at the Mangatepopo carpark and ends at the Ketetaki carpark. It is well managed and accessible to everyone. The young and the old as long as you’re in good physical shape. I saw an 8 to 10 year old kid and a lady, at least, in her sixties on the hike.

The terrain changes constantly along the way. Starting with low lying brushes, streams, a moist environment to a very rocky and dry earth. Then desert-like as you reach the craters. Made me think of Mars, I don’t know why. It must be the movies. Very loose, rocky earth after that as you climb the steep hill before arriving at the summit. This is where my iPhone gave out on me. It wouldn’t stay on for more than a couple of seconds before shutting off completely. I’m pretty sure it was the drop in temperature. Hence no video of the most crucial time. It was the beginning signs that my battery needed replacing. Anyways, once you hit the summit, all your efforts are compensated by the beautiful Emerald Lakes. Three lakes, three different colours. Magnificent! And, of course, the 360° views of the valley, the snow capped Mount Ruapehu, Mount Ngauruhoe, the craters, steam coming out of the earth... just spectacular! You really feel like on another planet. The descent to the lakes is probably the most dangerous... maybe not dangerous but the probability of injury is most likely to occur here if caution is not adhered to. Take your time and you’ll be fine. After another crater crossing, you arrive to a fourth, much larger lake, the Blue Lake. You see this one before the others from afar and is more impressive then than up close. In my opinion anyway. 

I forgot to mention that there are toilets available every 6 kilometres or so. Very handy. We stopped near one of these for lunch with a view. Not of the toilets. It’s where we got a spectacle of a helicopter bringing in materials and men to empty the toilets. Amazing the speed at which they conducted their work.

From here on end it was pretty much all down hill. Dry, low lying brush to the Ketetahi Shelter where almost everyone stopped for a break and a chat. After that you enter the forest until you reach the second car park. Quite welcoming this forest for it’s shade.

Oh and talk about shade (apart from the forest at the very end), there isn’t any, anywhere, on the alpine crossing. So come prepared with the necessary. Sunscreen, hat, windbreaker (lots of wind and the temperature drops as you arrive towards the summit, even in summer) and most important of all, water. Lots of it. Minimum a litre, more if you can. 19.4 kms up and over mountains is nothing to sniff at so be prepared, take your time and you’ll enjoy every moment of it.

We got back to the lodge around 2 pm. Had a shower, relaxed a little and decided to hit the road. From here on end we were heading north back towards Auckland. We stopped at Taumarunui Holiday Park in the town of Mananui for the night. We arrived a few hours before sunset and took the opportunity for a snooze, tidying up, relaxing, aperitif, dinner and bed. I think we were all in bed by 7:30-8 o’clock. The hike took it’s toll.

That’s it my friends. Tomorrow we head to Waitomo Caves. Goodnight.

p.s. just a self reminder to thank my friend, Alain, for the use of his photos and videos.

MUSIC :

Relaxing Ambient Maori Music with Beautiful Sunset on the Beach - Healing Meditation Music from Sue Rogers